The online part is the easy part.

It's the question I get most, and it almost always comes from someone who already told themselves no before asking. I can't promise you an approval — that isn't the salesperson's call, it's the lender's.

What I can tell you is that without the information nobody can look at your case, and that there's more than one option depending on where you stand. I'd rather tell you how things actually are than have you leave thinking it wasn't even worth asking.

It depends on how much you drive and how long you plan to keep it. A new car loses value faster in the first years, but comes with a full warranty and no history. A used one costs less up front, and there what matters is the vehicle's history, not the model year.

Tell me how many miles you drive a month and in two minutes I'll tell you which way works out better for you.

A valid driver's license, proof of address and proof of income. If you're trading in your current car, bring the title and the keys too — both of them, if you have them: a missing key lowers what you get for it.

If you're missing something, tell me before you come. It's worse to drive all the way here just to be told to come back tomorrow.

Yes — and it helps to know one thing: what they give you for your car and the price of the one you're taking are two separate numbers. Ask for them separately. If all you're told is “your monthly payment comes to this much,” you still don't know what they're giving you for yours.

There's no magic number. The more you put down, the less interest you pay and the less time you spend owing more than the car is worth. But don't drain your savings for a big down payment: a car has costs from month one.

And remember insurance and registration. Plenty of people do the math on the car payment alone and then the month costs more than they expected.